Boxcar Kitchen

a big dinner from small onions

Monday, July 26 2010

Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp Ice Cream

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The boys got me an ice cream attachment for my Kitchen Aid a few months ago for Mother's Day. I have been having a great time putting together a "to make" list and an even better time checking the flavors off my list. Not to mention that they have been pretty happy with their role as taste testers. Pastry studio has been a major source of ice cream inspiration (all round really). And the first flavor I tried was her Strawberries and Cream recipe. It was heaven. The creamy fresh tang of her buttermilk/sour cream base is perfection.

So when I had the idea for strawberry rhubarb ice cream, I instantly thought of her recipe. I did make some changes though, but not because the were needed. I'm one of those people who never actually checks to make sure that they have all the ingredients necessary before starting. This naturally leads to a lot of interpretation. As it so happened, I only had a smidge of crème fraîche left (which I use to replace sour cream here in France) and I had to substitute the rest with fromage blanc. In the end, I don't think it made much difference.

Like most people, I love classic strawberry rhubarb crisp and it is my one recipe that will always remain under lock and key. I've spent many years perfecting it and it has kind of become my signature dessert and I just can't bare to let it go. Everyone has one of those, right? Anyway, this frozen version is a welcome change. The ice cream is light on the tongue but melts really smooth and creamy and the addition of leftover compote and a crumb topping takes the dessert to another level. I particularly like the deconstructed aspect of it. The ice cream base is surprising and the composition of ice cream, crisp and compote really makes for some nice texture which is something that cannot be said for traditional crisp.

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Sunday, June 27 2010

Summer barbecue (in the kitchen): Sea bass with gros sel and tarragon

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Ok, so if you didn't cook it, do you still get to blog about it? I'm going with a yes on this one, since it seems that everything I get to making lately gets eaten before I can get the cap off my lens. And secondly, this little beast was done up right by my better half, so I can still kind of call dibs.

We eat a lot of fish in our house and we have made a tradition of heading out to the market just the three of us each Sunday morning to pick out our scaly lunch. Casper loves fish. Whether is be sea bass, cod, sole or mackerel, he gobbles it down Smeagol-style and makes us so very proud. I think it just might be his favorite food. Although boudin blanc comes in at a close second. I'm guessing this must be his French side shining through.

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Friday, April 30 2010

Galettes de sarrasin and the joys of induction

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A few months ago we finally replaced our terrible-very-bad-no-goodforyou non-stick crêpe pan. We just hadn't gotten around to replacing it earlier. Mostly due to the fact that we were in the process of replacing the rest of our kitchen battery since moving to induction. The only two things that made the cut were my All-clad saucier from mom and my cast iron egg pan from pop. When the hub first suggested induction I was skeptic and still harboring a flame for a gas stovetop. But once he made me realize what a pain putting a gas line in is and that I would be “forced” to finally chuck all my old non-stick, I was sold.

So the crêpe pan was replaced and replaced it was. Calling it an upgrade would be just too banal; we got the Rolls Royce of crêpe pans - a Staub. We had been eyeing it for months and couldn't really bring ourselves or our budget to buy it. In the end, it was a present from the mother-in-law (thanks!) and we spent our money on a lovely and more practical Cristel sauteuse. Talk about a win-win situation.

The pan is simply amazing but it did call for a period of adjustment. For our first trial run we made buckwheat galettes or savory crêpes. I had picked up some organic buckwheat from a small producer in Brittany at my local health food store. I had been looking for some for awhile after having read an article this past summer about the new wave in artisan buckwheat production in Brittany. Apparently buckwheat is very delicate. Industrial style production, milling and storing don't do it any justice and it seems that the flour that comes from these productions is partly to blame for our previous failed attempts in making galettes. Humph.

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Tuesday, April 20 2010

Spring market: asparagus, morels and gariguettes

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I love not working and going to the market on a weekday. (sigh).

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Monday, January 11 2010

New kitchen, new year

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So a lot has happened this year. We welcomed a better version of ourselves into our family, moved, bought a new place, and remodeled.

Needless to say, it has been a whirlwind filled with late nights and very early mornings, first smiles and soft sweet cuddles, laughter and exploration, cries and frustration, indecision and budgets, and construction and paint fumes. It takes a long time for the dust to settle when you have so many things going at once. And in the process of all this newness, some things are forgotten or put off (Insert story about losing domain name here and the jerks that bought it out from under me...) and there really is never enough time. Time. I guess I've come to realize that although I'm pretty good at taking control and finding solutions for other people, I'm not that great at managing the daily life that is mine. I think my seemingly clean house and overstuffed disheveled closets are proof of that.

But one of the best things about forgetting is remembering. The twenty you pull out of the pocket of a pair of pants you haven't worn in months (Everything fits, yeah!), pictures from dusted-off photo albums from the early years, or a camera and a blog that are finding old friends - flour and butter.

So here is to making more good food, fattening up the husband, finding inspiration, taking more pictures, connecting with friends, always having cookies in the freezer, and teaching Casper how to properly fold in egg whites.

Here is to getting this kitchen dirty.

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Thursday, March 12 2009

Something to look forward to: Pops' poppers

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I took this picture last June when I was home visiting my parents. One of the best parts about going home (in the summer) is having a nice big old yard to hang out and barbecue in. I suppose I could fire up a few steaks on my mini city balcony but I don't think my neighbors would appreciate that much. I don't think it's very legal either.

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Wednesday, February 25 2009

A trio to celebrate ours

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Well, it certainly has been awhile. I swear, I really I have been cooking - and eating for that matter. But free time has been spare and I've had quite a few fish to fry. Between work and getting ready for the addition of the "Bean", I just didn't have the energy to produce anything that I thought worth sharing. But now that Bean is here and his internship in "learning to sleep through the night or the better part of it" is nearing its end, I've got a little more time and energy. Still, everything I make is really simple. Basically, if I can't whip it up during nap time or it takes more than 20 minutes to get it from the fridge to the plate, I'm not going to bother.

Fennel, in all its forms, has been a diet staple since bringing Bean home. I was betting on its calming properties to help sooth the little man's colic. The colic was short lived but not the vegetable! Fennel was always one of those things that I love and enjoyed but never prepared. Now, most of the time I just chop it up, throw it in a pot with a big hunk of butter, let it get all brown and caramelized, and then cook it down his a little bit of water until it was melt in your mouth tender. Its warm and comforting and a nice change of pace from all the winter root vegetables we've been eating. Delicious - caramel and anise - almost like dessert for dinner.

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Sunday, June 15 2008

Far from perfect but still pretty good

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Over the winter I picked up a copy of Joël Robuchon's Tout Robuchon. It is kind of laid-out as one of those "if you only have one cookbook in your kitchen, it should be this one" books. It is page after page of French classics - a type of encyclopedia of modernized traditional dishes. I figured I couldn't go wrong with that, so I bought it even though there isn't a single picture in it.

The first recipe I made out of it confirmed my good judgment. I used Robuchon's quiche base to make a porcini, spinach, bacon quiche. It was heaven. I have never had such good quiche in my entire life. There was nothing watery or curd-like about it. It came out firm and custardy. In fact, it was so delicious that I barely even thought about all the cream that went into baking it.

The Far Breton was my next stop and it left me asking for more. A far is a traditional dessert from Brittany and its batter is a cross between a flan and a clafouti and is often garnished with prunes. A good far is better than good. The prunes baked into the eggy base are soft and sweet and comforting. I admit that I didn't follow the recipe to the letter because I didn't have any prunes but I was still pretty disappointed with the rather lifeless base. I did however, manage to polish off the thing but I don't think I'll be making it again.

With a tied score - one good recipe to one not so good recipe - the only thing left to do is to keep the test-kitchen fires burning. Next on the list is Robuchon's famous purée and I have a feeling it will be just as good as at the Atelier.

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Sunday, February 24 2008

Puttin' on the Ritz: Le Délice

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In October, to celebrate my 30th birthday, some friends gifted me with a baking class at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier. The hub was perfect in choosing a 4 hour-long Saturday afternoon class dedicated to chocolate. (Yeah!) The combination of spending an afternoon with a real-life pastry chef in a veritable professional pastry kitchen at on of the most prestigious palaces in the city was enough to make me swoon. The only hitch was the wait. The class was scheduled for January which meant three long months of perusing their website and obsessing about what we might bake.

The day finally arrived and it it was one of those unseasonable warm days that have made up the majority of this winter season. With just a light jacket and the sun on my shoulders, I took the bus along the Seine to the Concorde and then walked up rue St. Honoré. I cut through a marbled shopping gallery that spills out on the Place Vendôme and came face to face with the Ritz. As I crossed the threshold of the main entrance I couldn't help but have one of those "I can't belive I'm here" blasts of happiness.

There were 10 of us in the class and we were split up into two groups which meant that we really were able to be hands on and not just silent observers. Each armed with a plethora of utensils and crisp white aprons we got down to business. Our chef was relaxed, easy-going and really interested in answering questions and teaching us just as much about technique as about the recipe we were preparing. The dessert in question was Le Délice or The Delight: a Sacher spongecake layered with chocolate mousse (saturated with a simple syrup) and a pistachio crème, covered in a chocolate ganache and painted with cocoa butter.

The best part though was all the little "pro" hints that make baking at home so much more interesting. For example, instead of using cake pans you can use rings which de-mold a million times easier. If your cake bakes in the shape of a volcano it means that you've overmixed. Although I'm sure that never happens to anyone. You can use a pair of square dowels set on either side of your cake to act as a guide when cutting it into cross sections. When making chocolate mousse, you can add your sugar as a boiling simple syrup to your egg yolks which gives your dessert a longer lifespan. When making a dessert like The Délice, which has a caramelized cream center, you freeze it before assembly. Cool, right?

Now, the only thing I need besides a kitchen torch, a 10 pound bag of Valrhona 70% chocolate, and an airless paint sprayer for the cocoa butter finish is a spot in the Ecole's 6 week-long pastry program this summer followed by a champagne toast at the hotel bar!

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Sunday, November 18 2007

The last of the plums - A short story in scones

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If long hours at work, the inkling of winter weather and the many days of grèves (strikes) aren't reason enough to keep you holed up at home on the weekend, then I don't know what is. Hibernating is exactly what I have been doing, spending weekend after weekend, snuggled up on the couch reading cookbooks and browsing blogs. Lately, it’s been all about the kinetic energy. And although I didn't manage to get myself out to the market to scour the shelves for cool new ingredients, I did manage to move my slippered feet into the kitchen and whip up something simple and hearty.

Basically, I was in the mood for a treat to go with tea and I had a fresh bag of oatmeal and a bowl of plums sitting on the counter. Not really divine intervention, but inspiration nonetheless. A lot of times, scones are filled with dried fruit: raisins, cherries, currents, apricots. Why not use fresh fruit instead? I attempted a bready version of a granola bar. The experiment just so happed to work out and a half hour later, we were back on the couch enjoying warm scones and hot tea.

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